Prague...The City Freedom Changed

Since my first trip to Prague was 22-23 June 1985, I must reflect on the changes. A friend and I backpacked and Eurailed that summer. While in Vienna, we made arrangements to get a visa and join a bus trip to Prague. I noted in my journal that guards boarded the bus at the border, took our passports, then we stepped off the bus where we had to declare our possessions. They wrote down our camera brands.

From the journal:  "Prague looked deserted compared to the capitals and large cities that we had visited....Virtually no cars around....It took us a couple of stops and questions before we found a place to sell us a Pepsi......As we continued toward the river, the streets were practically deserted except for police at every corner. One even stopped us when we crossed the street and the red man was on. He showed us the green man and the red one, explaining in Czechish how to cross the streets. He smiled and was very pleasant. Of course, we smiled and nodded, holding our tourist map in hand."

I mentioned in the journal that we received coupons rather than change on an occasion that we managed to find something to buy. Each tourist (prorated for children) was required to spend a certain amount of money each day. Each transaction was noted on a form they gave up upon entry and returned when we exited.  If we hadn't spent enough, we could buy at the border (one family ended up supplying the bus with snacks for the return to Vienna) or just pay the difference.

Another journal entry:  "Going back to the square, it was amazing to notice the designs and differences in the buildings. Someone had told us that Prague was drab. Admittedly, many buildings need to be cleaned, but there are pastels mixed in."

I made two more trips to Prague in 1992 when friends and family visited us in Germany. I was amazed by the changes even then. Looking back, I can't believe we 'tumbleweeded' into Prague. We made room arrangements at the train station upon arrival, and both times we stayed in apartments that people rented out. I really don't think they had the hotels that are presently available.

Now I am in awe of the changes that have occurred since then. If I can figure out how to get my slides from the '85 trip on this computer, I'll add them so you can see  some of the transformation.

 Flint and I spent four wonderful days there. We agree that much of the beauty of Prague lies in its architecture. Almost everywhere beauty of the old elaborate buildings will catch the eye. But there is the mix of the plain, boring from the recent past history, too. We were made much more aware of this part when we made a trip via bus out to a residential part of town for "Europe's Best Strudel." ...food being another joy of Prague. Recommended by one of Flint's colleagues, we followed Travel Channel Samantha Brown's advice. (I couldn't find reference to the strudel on the website though.) It was worth the bus ride and the walk through the residential area to find a little man behind orange bars selling the fresh apple strudel. We asked for two, he looked at us like we were crazy, he sold us one...and we ate on it all day long! Delicious!

Waiting at Susta Strudl

Food variety reigns in Prague. Our first meal was Spanish La Boca with a delicious variety of tapas. Our evening meal French. CervenaTabulka. Not only was the food outstanding, but their mix of music included some of our favorites....Dean Martin, Frank Sinatra, Edith Piaf, Patsy Cline....can you beat that mix? I would have eaten other meals at both places, but we needed to savor more tastes. We continued through Arab, Indian, the Czech goulash, bread dumplings, pig knee, with pancakes for dessert at Na Klarove. One see and be seen place Barock where the potato soup and the black bread couldn't be beat, and the sidewalk cafe of the Grand Hotel in Wencelas Square.

Always serious about food

The music...concerts are available throughout the day and evenings in churches, palaces, museums. We stumbled upon a ladies choir giving a preview on the steps of St. Nicholas Church and followed them inside for a lovely afternoon of  "Ave Maria," "Panis Angelicus," and more recognizable songs mixed with some unfamiliar tunes.

Another day we followed the sounds of organ music into the beautiful church where a lady was practicing on a cherub covered pipe organ.

The Infant Jesus of Prague...we should have known more about this statue. We recognized its picture as we wandered around and found it in Our Lady of  Victory Church. As we exited through the gift shop, a priest invited us into a small chapel the bless the few items we purchased. 

Brought from Spain, people from all over have donated clothes.

The Charles Bridge

Organ Grinder

Dancing to "Downtown" during a filming episode

Since I needed knitting needles, we located the shop Galanterie from directions found on a blog. Great needles for about $3.00. I should have bought more! And they were correct...the two ladies didn't speak a word of English between them!

.

Prague remains a city of beauty, art, music and history. I am fortunate to have seen and felt the  before and after of one of Europe's greatest cities. Thank goodness for freedom!